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Zeolite chemical filtration for ammonia Not necessary in a well maintained cycled tank — may be used in emergencies. Water conditioner. Medication just in case and if you DO decide to adjust pH of your water each and every water change, then a pH adjuster. An ammonia spike is actually useful since it can let you know something is wrong in your tank.
Zeolite can hide this problem, pushing it down the road until the Zeolite needs replacing in which case the ammonia will spike again. In a healthy tank, the only thing you need to add is the water conditioner during a water change — once you are up and running, fish keeping is much cheaper than the petstores make it seem.
I filled my tank with spring water. Tested before and it was great. When you say you filled it with spring water, did you test it when you added it? The ammonia rising is part of the cycling process. If it has ammonia, then your cycle is proceeding, it has not been cycled yet. I used tap water. I always use that, the same way. My fish always live happy long lives. I have also been catching local bass and sunfish lately, and adding to existing tanks. They adapt well to water changes. Way better than pet store fish.
Are you in the process of cycling? If so, cloudiness is normal and to be expected. The average PH in my city water is 9. Our water also contains 1.
I add Prime every other day to make sure the ammonia stays converted to ammonium. You discuss re-mineralization of the RO water before using it for an aquarium. How exactly would I know which additives to add to the water? Is RO water safe to drink without re-mineralizing it? I remember a Chemistry professor telling us that if we drank Distilled water all the time we would eventually die of dehydration since there is no way for you body to get the minerals you need to drink it and it will suck those minerals from your cells.
RO water sounds like it presents the same problem. Also how practical is it to use? I have 3- 29 gallon tanks and I change at least gallons of water per tank each week. So I would need to have that on hand at all times to stay on my weekly water schedule change. Is RO water PH neutral ie. I really do want to stop using out tap water as it comes from the tap, but am concerned I would just be trading in one set of problems for another. It sounds like you have already given this a great amount of thought and identified the problems of both approaches.
You are indeed correct in that you are trading in one set of problems for another. As far as remineralizing is concerned, there are a wide range of products that do this, such as seachem equilibrium. Whichever approach you take, you will need to balance the water before adding it to your tank. As for practicality, it all depends on your personal situation — which problems are easier for you to overcome?
Thank you for all of your helpful information on this blog. My 75 gallon tank is in week two of a fishless cycle. I used my tap water which fit the parameters of 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, and less than 10 nitrate. The pH runs a touch on the high side of 8.
I finally got my first spike of nitrites hallelujah! By the way, I followed your fishless cycle post. My local shop here set me up with some remineralizing SeaChem products that will help with plants when I start adding them.
Basically, how much of a water change should I do to incorporate this new water? Tough question. It all depends on your current water. I assume you are buying a water softener because either your KH or GH is off the charts? If you need more, add more. It will take some messing before you get it right.
But once you have the exact amount, you can use that amount for each future water change with a certain degree of confidence. Thank you for your feedback. My KH and GH are astronomically high. I gave up after 22 drops with my API tester. I dislike making adjustments during the cycle. You should be doing weekly water changes at a minimum how often do you change the water? What does your test kit say for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and ph?
What is the water temp and how long do you leave the lights on for? I do have a RO tap as well as a regular tap. Which is better to store: RO or regular tap? Thanks l much for your advice and may God bless you and keep you and your loved ones of course pets included safe. Regular tap water is better for the fresh water tank. Freshwater fish need trace minerals which are stripped out during the RO process. I currently have two betta girls in separate 3 gal.
In one tank, the alkalinity is high. Can I cut that down with distilled water? I would like to recommend that you keep your betas in ten gallon tanks. I also believe that the tanks should be heated. This article helps, but I am still not sure. My uncle has a tank here — 5 or 10g, not sure. But then, about a month ago, he got a 20g tank. Anyway, I am learning different things over time.
I did many water changes, with the PH never changing. So KH was very high, so I got a water softener pillow. So yeah, the pillow got the GH down, but obviously not the KH. But I did a pretty big water change before adding the pillow, so now the Nitrite level in that tank is up.
And I am using the 5-in-1 test strips. Nitrate — 0ppm Nitrite — 3. Again, tetras, guppies, cories. Is the other forum right — leave it alone — or my friend — PH is too high? Btw, my uncle is impatiently wanting to add more fish…so I need to know what to do to be able to add more the same type fish.
It sounds like your nitrates are off the charts. If your uncle has never done a water change, then the nitrates will be so high that multiple water changes will bee needed to get them back down. Some fish are much more tolerant of poor water quality than others. My first advice is to get rid of the test strips and use an aquarium test kit.
Hard water tanks wills till cycle. With water like that, you should consider hardwater loving fish. A high ph will not kill hard water fish over time. Only fish and inverts that prefer soft water. And I agree it would be much simpler to get different fish. Your thinking is absolutely correct on the lime, it raises water hardness through the addition of calcium and magnesium. If anything, you are lucky that you can keep cichlids — check them out, in my opinion they are considerably prettier to look at than guppies and tetras.
If you are the one doing the work, you should at least have some say on how much work you have to do. The easiest way is to buy KH adjusters. Leave me a comment on that page if you do have questions, so they can help other people reading. Your email address will not be published. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment.
Sign up with your email for our newsletter and be notified when we publish new blog posts. Close Menu Blog. Aquarium thermometer. Automatic fish feeder. Water changer. FishLab Tip: Want to do less water preparation? However, distilled or reverse osmosis water does not have the necessary minerals to stabilize pH. If you use this in an excess amount, the pH of your fish water will be unstable which is dangerous for your fish. Fishes are very sensitive to the smallest of pH fluctuations and are prone to fatal injuries or even death.
Spring water can vary in composition, in terms of minerals and pH, again creating an unstable environment. It all depends on the location and origins of these waters, therefore, to trace minerals will vary greatly. Fish also utilize the minerals present in water just the same way plants do. Minerals here include magnesium, calcium, and iron.
Any spring that is rich in these minerals is vital for the health of every fish. Many spring waters, especially in the developed nations e. Springs can be contaminated with many kinds of chemicals such as from industries and nearby farms and still look crystal clear. Pesticides from farms, in particular, will kill your fish. Pathogens such as bacteria and viruses can kill your fish may also be present in your fish water.
You have the sole responsibility of making sure that your fish is healthy. Besides providing them with adequate space or a healthy diet, you also have to make sure that the aquarium environment meets the requirement. An important factor to make your fish look healthy is the quality of your water. Therefore, it is paramount that you choose the correct water source and condition the water in an appropriate manner. Your already doing it right. Testing your water source is the first thing that should be done.
So I will empty tank of as much water as I can and replace with the spring water then to give a boost for my cycle should I use tetra safe start? I will then wait till it gets to zero then add to get back up to 4ppm?
Is this correct. Dont want to mess it up again and start this all over again. Sorry for all the questions. Yes tetra safe start. Your first ammonia dose should be up to 4ppm.
After that dose it to 2ppm. When your tank can convert that in 24 hours your cycled. It would be easier if you can get media from a friends tank.
If that's possible? That would give you an instant cycle and you could get fish right away. I would not bring the ammonia level to 4ppm if using Tetra SafeStart. If it were me well actually if it were me I would do a fish-in cycle with TSS I would only raise the ammonia level to 2ppm. Similar Aquarium Threads K. Spring water in aquariums is it safe? Krishorner84 Sep 6, Aquarium Water. Replies 11 Views Sep 6, MacZ. Axolotl tank cycling - starting to go slightly insane.
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